Harlem in New York has long been a cultural Mecca for African-Americans.
In the 20th century it was considered by many as a crime hub afflicted by gang violence.
Today it's firmly on the tourist trail, and property prices have rocketed.
For the first episode in our 5-part series reporter Sarah Lefevre meets Karen Taborn, an ethnomusicologist, jazz musician and the author of Walking Harlem.
Click the 'play' button above to listen
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